C’è una matrice comune ad ogni forma estetica dell’oggi, a volerla cercare. E’ l’assoluta preponderanza dell’aspetto tecnologico. Il dominio della tecnica. Così come vengono “costruiti” i cantanti di successo dentro a vere fabbriche della canzone pop che si basano sul digitale e sulla computerizzazione della musica, così si fabbricano i vini attraverso protocolli enologici rigidi ed omologanti incentrati sulla chimica e sulle tecnologie dell’industria alimentare. E’ il vino al tempo della sua riproducibilità tecnica, per dirla con Michel Le Gris. Un vino figlio del suo tempo che si basa su di un gusto omologato. E se per caso il gusto cambia, perché qualche innovatore sposta l’attenzione verso qualcosa di nuovo, che problema c’é? Ci si adegua. Perché qualunque ricetta oggi può essere adeguatamente replicata.
Ma non basta. E’ anche la possibilità di una distribuzione immediata su larga scala, a creare le condizioni per cui tutto deve essere facilmente “consumabile” e comprensibile. E’ la cultura pop, bellezza.
Così un gusto “medio”, paradigmatico, borghese ed innocuo si fa pietra di paragone del bello e del buono. E devianza è ciò che a questo gusto non rassomiglia. Oppure difetto. Al massimo “alternativo”, se si vuol creare una nicchia da spremere.
Ed allora capita che dopo ottomila anni di vinificazioni l’uomo moderno salga in cattedra a dire che cosa sia il vino e di cosa debba sapere. E gli enologi ed i sommeliers prima di tutto cercano il difetto, nel bicchiere, non la fatica dei contadini.
"Non è il vino dell'enologo - Lessico di un vignaiolo che dissente" - ed. DeriveApprodi
Carissimo Corrado, non ci conosciamo e spero vivamente di ovviare a questa mancanza al più presto. Sto leggendo con grande emozione il tuo libro, non nego una profonda invidia per quel salto nel buio che tu hai affrontato e che io ancora per il momento non trovo il coraggio di fare. Ci lega una grande passione per il vino, la mia più da avventore anche se ho provato a cimentarmi nella vinificazione, la seconda cosa che ci unisce è la musica che da qualche anno è entrata nella mia vita in maniera irruenta, ed è proprio la musica percepita in maniera emotiva, dettagliata, silenziosa e anche disturbata quando lo deve essere che mi ha avvicinato ad un modo di concepire il vino totalmente diverso, la musica e il vino possono viaggiare sugli stessi concetti di pulizia e naturalezza di espressione dell'anima e fotografia di un momento di lavoro e condivisione di festa e di riflessione. Come per il vino anche la musica ha bisogno di mani sapienti per esprimere le giuste emozionia, abbiamo pescato le tecniche dei nostri nonni per costruire impianti che possano esprimere dettagli, abbiamo capito che che una volta aveveno poche risorse e la mente elaborava concetti straordinariamente efficenti, abbiamo levato tutto il superfluo perchè più si trasforma più si snatura, gli impianti che costruiamo non sono in vendita e mai lo saranno, cerchiamo di sensibilizzare le persone, di stimolarle, incuriosirle e fargli ascotare il suono del vino, la melodia che si sprigiona da una bottiglia e accompagnarla nella piacevole degustazione di un brano da meditazione di Miles Davis.
Nella speranza di poterti incontrare ti invito ad Imola per ascoltare un pò di buona Musica bere un buon bicchiere di vino e fare quattro chiacchere per un evento da organizzare assieme...
Un carissimo saluto
AUDIO DI VINO
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